Graham Browne Bespoke Suit
Tailor: Graham Browne Bespoke Tailor, 12 Well Court (off Bow Lane) London, EC4M 9DW
Details of the suit: double breasted, half-lined, buttons 6×2, double side vents, lapel 11cm and slightly curved and ‘full’, not that sharp, side pockets with flaps (I wear them hidden inside the pocket). The jacket is cut to fit quite tight both in the back and waist. Arm hole is rather high and the sleeves narrow compared to my other jackets. Shoulders have some padding in because of my very sloping shoulders and they significantly increase the impression of the V shape build.
I got some photos from the wedding of the suit ‘in action’ and the collar always stays at the neck. The fabric is nice mid-grey wool so will look nicely in the sun light.
Fabric: The Blenheim Collection by Hunt & Winterbotham – super 140, number 33841
Originally the suit’s purpose was to be my wedding suit so I went for this soft and light fabric. Wedding was in late June so the hot weather was very likely.
The weight is 280g. It is made in Italy by Vitale Varberis Canonico for Hunt & Winterbotham. JJ minnis is now called Hardy-Minnis and carries only made in England qualities which is the other brand that belong to HFW – Huddersfield Fine Worsteds based in Elland.
Lining: London Skyline
The shirt is the Luxire pale blue summer chambray with one-piece hidden button down collar, I made a post on the shirt here. To be honest I think I prefer to wear it unbuttoned – more as a casual shirt rather then with a suit. This is however based on my personal preference only because to me it is just more comfortable without a tie. Still looks quite nice because of the collar roll.
Tie is a navy with white dots shantung silk in grenadine weave from Shibumi. Silk pocket square from Shibumi as well.
Button braces by Mark&Spencer.
Shoes are from Laszlo Vass (Hungary). These are on U last, black cap toe oxford in calf leather and J. Rendenbach sole, hand made in Hungary.
I believe Graham Browne represents a truly British tailoring at a reasonable price. Probably it is hard to find that good tailor at similar price (only Cad&The Dandy comes to mind). As far as I know C&TD are not really willing to change the style of their suits and jackets for the customer while Graham Browne more likely will do that. You can adjust the cut to your specifications but in the reasonable manner.
After wearing the suit few times I noticed that the trousers in the hip area are a bit tight and I would prefer to take out a little. There are also some creases visible in the front part of the arm hole/sleeve head so I will have to meet the tailor again and discuss that. Otherwise I cant really see anything wrong with the suit and am very happy with it. James from GB helped me a lot during the process so big thanks to him.