Luxire trousers and J. Fitzpatrick shoes

Luxire trousers and J. Fitzpatrick shoes

Luxire trousers

It’s almost the end of summer but last weekend I managed to wear a shirt and a cardigan only so it is not that bad yet. Sunday was a day of trip to Hampton Court Palace, a short train ride from Central London. Shortly before the weekend I received another parcel from Luxire – the online made to measure tailoring brand – which consisted of couple of shirts and this pair of trousers. It’s been a long time since I started thinking about a blue shade trousers. Ordered some swatches and decided to go with this rather medium weight royal blue cotton twill. They are not as versatile as you would want your first pair to be but once you stock your closet with all the khaki’s, stone’s and grey’s you can finally go ‘mad’ and decide on something really odd. This royal blue shade is suitable for a warmer part of the year – no doubt. Although if styled smartly you can get away with wearing it even in Spring or even early Autumn.

Poniewaz to juz prawie koniec lata, ale jeszcze calkiem zimno sie nie zrobilo to w dzisiejszym poscie przedstawie prawdopodobnie jedna z ostatnich letnich stylizacji. Moja historia z Luxire trwa juz calkiem dlugo, uszylem u nich ok 4-5 par spodni i sam juz nie wiem dokladnie ile koszul. W ostatnim zamowieniu znalazly sie dosc nietypowe, bo wykonane z bawelnianego twillu chinosy koloru ‘royal blue’. Cokolwiek w tym przypadku znaczy ‘royal’ to spodnie sa w odcieniu dosc zywego niebieskiego. When you go made-to-measure way, especially online, it takes a few iterations to get the fit right. Once you nail the fit though the process is quick and easy. I am very happy this time, as my goal was to create a well fitting casual chinos but with a few nice details. I was aiming particularly  at high rise fit – so no horizontal creases – and mainly comfort in the crotch. The length of the trousers turn out to be very good as well. There is some excess of fabric close to the back seam but it is tiny and can be corrected easily within the next order. The slant pockets sit nicely on the hips as well as the pleats. Luxire trousers is a success, again!

Proces szycia na wymiar spodni, a tym bardziej na odleglosc, przebiega calkiem sprawnie kiedy w koncu Twoj kroj jest ustalony i jestes zadowolony z koncowego dopasowania. Zabralo mi to troche czasu, ale mozna powiedziec, ze w koncu jestem wystarczajaco zadowolony zeby praktycznie nie wprowadzac kolejnych poprawek. Szczegolnie cieszy mnie dopasowanie spodni w posladkach gdzie nie widac zadnych poprzecznych linii gniecen, a dlugosc spodni jest w sam raz. Mozna doczepic sie do nadmiaru tkaniny przy centralnym szwie obok kieszeni, ale jest to minimalna ilosc, z ktora moge sie pogodzic, a w nastepnym zamowieniu to skorygowac. Kieszenie i zakladki leza plasko i nie odstaja. Luxire po raz kolejny wykonalo kawal dobrej roboty.

I have been planning to purchase real odd trousers for a long time. Decision was made and I wanted something that would go well with light coloured jackets. This pair of Luxire trousers are made in chinos style although with a few interesting details that I think make them a little more elegant. Because of the rich blue colour and twill cotton fabric you can even wear them without a coat and go for cardigan or a vest instead.

Spodnie innego koloru niz khaki, szary czy kremowy byly w planie juz bardzo dlugo i uznalem ze pierwszym innym kolorem bedzie niebieski. Kiedy posiadasz w szafie juz spora kolekcje standardowych kolorow, mozesz w koncu pomyslec o czyms mniej uniwersalnym. W moim przypadku sa to tez chinosy, ale z kilkoma detalami, ktore podnosza ich stopien formalnosci. Oczywiscie nie sa noszone do sportowych butow ani garniturow, ale znajda zastosowanie we wszystkich zestawach z marynarka lub tylko koszula/swetrem/kamizelka itp.

Details:

1. double reverse pleats
2. higher waistband with two buttons
3. button fly
4. unlined
5. cuffs 1.75in (rather narrow, ankle opening 7.25in)
6. high rise (11.75in front and 16in back)
7. side adjusters and internal buttons for braces

The fabric itself is rather medium in weight, not very suitable for a hot summer day. They feel similar to the other pair of chinos I got from Luxire – you can find them here – and I am sure that when your wardrobe is deep enough you will find many clothes that go well with it. I would recommend it for warmer months and temperatures around 20 degrees. Because of the shade of blue I am not quite sure they would look nice with winter-like cloths, colour and fabric wise.

Tkanina spodni jest dosc konkretna, gruboscia porownalbym je do moich chinosow w kolorze khaki z zeszlego roku, wiec na upalne dni sie nie nadaja. Jesli umiejetnie dobiore dodatki i reszte stroju to wlasciwie mozna by je nosic przez wieksza czesc roku, ale raczej zostawie je na okazyjne wyjscia poniewaz nie jestem przekonany czy tak wyrazny niebieski kolor pasuje do ubran noszonych w listopadzie lub marcu. 

J. Fitzpatrick shoes

The other item I wanted to show here is the pair of J. Fitzpatrick shoes I got from Justin’s (aka The Shoe Snob Blog) sale late last month. I am glad there was still something in my size around when I loaded the online store. This is the Phinney model, which I do not believe is available at the moment, made on TMG last. The last is quite classic in shape, therefore has rounded toe shape. Shoe itself is fitting me very well, there is no excess of free space inside, they fit true to size. No need to size up or down I think.

Oprocz spodni mam na sobie tez, jako ich dopelnienie, burgundowe oxfordy od Justina (aka The Shoe Snob Blog). Udalo mi sie je zdobyc na ostatniej wyprzedazy, wiec tym bardziej ciesze z zakupu. Probowalem wczesniej juz jego buty kiedy odwiedzalem jego sklep, ale model na innym kopycie i wtedy nie najlepiej mi pasowaly. Ten model to Phinney na kopycie TMG. Nie jest on juz dostepny ale podobne modele mozna zobaczyc pod zamieszczonym linkiem. Ma ono raczej klasyczny, lekko zaokraglony ksztalt, jest tez dosc smukle i dobrze pasuje do mojej stopy. 

I have worn them a couple of times before taking these photos, so first creases shown up but unfortunately the first time was rather painful. It is because of my right heel and the fact that I was walking around Hampton Court for quite a bit not even trying the shoes for longer than 10min at home. Well, it happens when you get new leather shoes but now everything is fine and comfortable. I don’t really now why it happened, it was only the second time in my recent career with quality footwear, the first time was with Meermin boots. The leather is of proper thickness which together with lining provides enough support. Because my feet tend to move inwards when walking I keep looking at the inside part of the shoes I own very carefully. They usually get softer in time therefore deflect more which I do not like. I try to look for shoes with more of foot arch support and we will see how it will go with J. Fitzpatrick pair. The burgundy colour has a nice patina on it, with darkened toe, heel and laces area. It makes them look interesting and adds character. Also a bit less formal than plain burgundy.

Buty byly juz kilka razy uzytkowane i niestety ten pierwszy raz byl dosc bolesny. Jak przystalo na nowe skorzane buty solidnie obtarly mi piety (sporo bylo tez spacerowania). Nie zdarza sie to kazdej parze butow, ostatnio tak bylo z trzewikami Meermin, ale w zasadzie nie wiem dlaczego. Skora jest wystarczajaco gruba zeby but dobrze trzymal ksztalt i nie zalamywal sie zbyt latwo, ale tez miekka tak zeby wygodnie sie chodzilo. Kolor jest lekko ‘przybrudzony’ lub ladniej mowiac ‘patynowany’ ciemniejszym odcieniem burgundu lub nawet czerni, ale tylko w okolicy piety, dziurek na sznurowadla i czubka buta. Nadaje mu to zdecydowanie ciekawszy charakter i sprawia, ze sa troche mniej formalne niz jednolity burgund.

On my Facebook page, couple of weeks ago I published a photo of myself wearing this pair with blue/navy suit and a grey one. Blue version paired with the burgundy leather shoe got much more positive comments but I would wear them equally often. It is definitely nice, after purchasing all these brown shaded and black shoes, to own a colour like burgundy. I like what Justin is doing with his brand, he’s a very smart designer and carefully adds creatively styled shoes to his range. All these shoes are designed with a very good taste and emphasise your outfit each time you wear them. It is a good balance between classic mens shoes and mens fashion.

Na swoim facebooku zamiescilem niedawno zdjecia tych butow w klasycznym zestawie z szarym i granatowym/niebieskim garniturem. Kilka glosow w komentarzach przewazalo na korzysc granatu jako koloru ktory lepiej komponuje sie z burgundem. Moim zdaniem jednak jak najbardziej pasuja do obu! Jest to mila odmiana po wszelkiego rodzaju brazach i czerniach. Oczywiscie nie jako pierwsza para, ale raczej 7 czy 8. Marka Justina Fitzpatricka podoba mi sie wlasnie dlatego, ze nie chce na sile byc inna, ale ze smakiem i gustem wprowadza niestandardowe kolory do kolekcji meskich butow, bedac przy tym dosc innowacyjna w swoich projektach. Na pewno nie ma w nich przesady i udanie balansuja na granicy klasycznej mody meskiej.

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