What to expect from Bespoke?
I have been thinking recently about different comments I had heard from people on their bespoke experience and expectations. This does indeed sound like an interesting topic for a blog post so here it is. My thoughts on Bespoke. Because my experience relates mostly to visiting tailors in London or me visiting a tailor (i.e. Zaremba in Warsaw) I will focus on those.
I will start from the back. Travelling or visiting tailors, as you may call them, usually have trunk shows approximately every 1-3 months. Some more often like Luca Avitabile & Solito, some less often like Dalcuore. When ordering a suit they would usually say it takes 1 fitting for a shirt, then during the next visit you would receive a finished shirt or 2 fittings for a suit and third one for the pick up. For your first order – it almost never happens! There is always something to be fixed, adjusted or changed. Do not expect it go perfectly the first time, or better – ever. You have to understand that whenever anything unexpected happens they can’t fix it within days. They usually have other trunk shows to visit in Europe so assume +- 1 more visit for your garment to be finished. My point here is that if you need your shirt or a suit to be ready by a very specific time start early. Earlier than official time schedule from your tailor. If it goes well and you got it on time you are lucky.
Bespoke, especially for people who need it “soon” or “asap”, is not the best choice. It is for people who have time, relatively big wardrobe and don’t need clothes, they want them. They can afford both time and money. There is nothing wrong with RTW or MTM. Bespoke is a premium service. At the same time, just because Amazon is offering their Prime customers 1 day delivery, does not mean your bespoke tailor would deliver a suit in 3 weeks. Be aware of those limitations and remember – don’t expect 100% perfection in minimum time.
The moment you placed an order you chose the style too. Every bespoke tailor has its own style and he will make a garment for you in this style. “Bespoke” does not mean you can have an Italian looking, softly tailored jacket from your local British tailor. Acquiring those skills and learning the style took them years so you have to know what to expect. Browse photos online of different tailoring houses and see which one you like most. Also try to imagine which one would look best on you or suit your environment. By doing this you will let the tailor create a bespoke garment in a style that he is most comfortable with – meaning he would do the best job possible.
Finding your own style is not easy though. It is not a coincidence that most of the best looking guys out there are over 40. They have been wearing clothes long enough to match them perfectly with their style. They are already in their comfort zone while many of us are still looking. And that is fine! It won’t happen in a month. That might be one of the reasons why going bespoke in a young age is not perfect. You probably still don’t really know what you want or need. In a year you might stop wearing the garment because your style has changed. It would be a shame to keep a bespoke suit in the closet only because your aesthetics changed – yet we all have been there.
We have talked about the style and delivery, now time to pick a fabric finally! You will never be disappointed if you go for a classic. Always start with classics, even if you already own a grey or navy suit. It will serve you years! I know how exciting choosing a cloth can be, there are hundreds of options, tailor will make anything for you. You see a nice photo of a green donegal and you are thinking “damn, this guy looks cool”. Yes! That is a wonderful cloth and great choice – for someone who already have the basics covered. Otherwise you might find yourself with nothing to wear it with. What would be considered classic cloth? Flannel for winter suit, 120’s wool for business everyday suit, navy hopsack or fresco for summer blazer. Tweed for sport coat and lightweight soft flannel for trousers. It’s not a rule, though I feel like that would be a good way of starting a bespoke wardrobe. What is your opinion? Have you got other fabric choices worth looking at for a “bespoke beginner”?
Hope you find this post useful. It would be my advice especially for those who are considering having something bespoke made. Please share your experience too!
As always, thanks for reading! See you soon.
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