Pitti Uomo 90 – blue hopsack blazer

Pitti Uomo 90 – blue hopsack blazer

On the second day of Pitti Uomo 90 I decided to wear the most conservative and classic combination of all days – blue hopsack blazer and cream mohair/wool trousers.

Hopsack is a type of weave. There are different hopsack fabrics though as some are more loosely woven than others. Traditionally the loosely woven one has been a classic summer fabric due to its ability to breathe.

Because of the high armhole you dont have to worry about the shoulder and collar adjustment – fits very well at all times

I am pretty sure I was snapchatting then 🙂 – my profile: blueloafers

My jacket’s fabric is a blend of 55% linen and 45% wool, unfortunately the brand – Suitsupply – did not put mill’s label. This type of weave ensures the appearance is textured and energetic. One of the all-time classic choices for summer blazer is hopsack fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico – Italian mill – who produces 100% wool cloth.

In style it is a very classic model: double breasted jacket with 6×2 buttons, jetted pockets and 2 side vents. Peak lapels are quite generous being 10cm wide but luckily the gorge is not positioned too high and jacket looks proportional. It has become one of my favourite blazers because of its very good  proportions. Button is on the right place, it is long enough  to cover the seat and the sleeves are not too “baggy”. It is Soho model for those familiar with Suitsupply cut. For the price of about £250-300 it is really one of the best option on the marker from value/money perspective.

The blue hopsack blazer is made of royal blue cloth. Works really well with cream wool/mohair  trousers. I also wear it with beige, sand or khaki chinos. These were made for me as made-to-measure by Luxire in VBC cloth (84% wool and 16% mohair, 230g). They are very lightweight and airy making them my favourite trousers for hot summer weather. One has to be careful with the underwear as they are a bit transparent. White would be your colour of choice.

In order to keep this outfit rather classic I decided to wear a plain brown zigzag knitted tie from Shibumi. Knitted texture matches plain white shirt well while flirting with the weave of the hopsack blazer. In this way one can achieve quite interesting effect of different fabrics working together while not being too flashy (as might be a problem for many these days).

As mentioned, shirt is made of plain white linen/cotton blend cloth as made to measure by Luxire. The collar is very soft as it was not fused. I never fuse my collars but if you do I would recommend putting only interlining inside for your summer shirts.

Pocket square is made of lightweight wool/silk mix by Poszetka. It is light brown in colour with blue and green prints. Poszetka’s square features hand-rolled edges for best quality. It is only 33x33cm though which is a bit small for my taste. I love the fabric though as it is amazingly soft.

I was wearing:
Jacket: hopsack blazer by Suitsupply
Trousers: mtm by Luxire
Shirt: mtm by Luxire
Tie: Shibumi
Square: Poszetka
Shoes: Yanko

Thanks for reading!

At Stefano Bemer party during Pitti Uomo 90 with my tailor and friend Changjean (B&Tailor)

When it is extra hot I take comfort over rules and unbutton the jacket

With my friend Lukasz of Outdersen blog